In Part 1, I explained how to harvest and prepare the beans for curing, and what equipment you’ll need. Next, we’ll go through how to sweat, dry and age the beans.
The Sweat Cycle
Following from the previous tutorial, your beans are now in the warm sweat box.
The beans are going to stay in the sweat box for 48 hours at first. Use the thermometer to watch the temperature in the zone where the beans are. The optimal temperature is 115℉, so the closer it stays to that temp, the better. Lower temperatures are OK, but once it gets into the low 90s, refill the water jugs.
This may be the most challenging part of the process to get right, but remember that having it drop into the 80s is not a big deal, it just will slow things down. Do your best to keep the temps up, but don’t worry about it.
The beans will become sticky and wet in the bag. This is what we’re looking for, it’s the sweat.
Once the 48 hours (or so–no need to be exact) is up, we cycle the beans through the dehydrator. Take your beans out of the bag and spread onto your dehydrator shelves. Turn the dehydrator to 115℉ and leave the beans in there for an hour or so. The stickiness should dry some…probably not all the way dry for the first few cycles.
Refill the hot water jugs with hot water.
After the hour of dehydrating, put the beans back into their bag (don’t be tempted to replace, wash or dry the bag, just re-use the wet bag), and then into the sweat box.
While the first sweat cycle is 48 hours, all subsequent sweat cycles will be 24 hours until the sweating is done. Between each cycle is 1 hour in the dehydrator. The effect of this is a very slow drying while the beans are sweating. This is partly to prevent rotting with all that warmth and moisture.
Once you’re into the sweat by a week, it becomes less critical that you do the dry cycle every 24 hours. Skipping a day is not a big deal. The temperature needs to stay near the optimal 115℉ as much as possible the whole time, however.
In our operation here, we use a electrically heated sweat box, much like an incubator, so the temperature control is automatic.
Completing the Sweat
The sweat is going to take 18 days from when you first put the beans into the sweat box. In that time, the color will turn from green to a light greenish brown and finally to brown. The aroma of the beans will go from sharp and floral at first, to a kind of (what I call) “leathery” smell. It won’t so much smell of vanilla until the end of the sweating period.
The beans may be a bit oily (the “oil” is really glucose) to the touch at the end of the 18 days, and they will have begun to shrink and get longitudinal wrinkles. These wrinkles are something you are going to focus on when assessing the progress of a bean as it cures.
Drying the Beans
The next stage is slowly drying the beans until they reach the desired moisture level. This can take anywhere from 3 weeks (for smaller beans) to 2 months to complete.
How you do the drying depends on what situation you can arrange for the beans. Here in Hawaii, we dry them outdoors on a drying rack that is elevated (on a roof) and protected from the rain and sun. Depending on your circumstances, there are several ways you can do the drying.
We want to dry the beans very slowly to get the best quality. This allows any remaining vanillin reactions to complete within the bean. It also helps ensure that we don’t overdry the beans. The sweat has conditioned the beans so they are preserved and stable as far as spoilage is concerned, so we are not in a hurry to dry them.
The important considerations for drying vanilla are:
- Clean, dry environment
- Undisturbed for several weeks
- Plenty of air circulation
Here are some ideas for setups for drying the beans:
- Indoors on dehydrator shelves placed on a laundry rack or wire shelf
- Outdoors on a similar setup, but away from the ground or over concrete, such as on a patio. Keep them high off the ground and don’t let the drying beans get wet.
- Solar dehydrator not in the sun, similar location: high off the ground or over concrete, this is to avoid dew, which comes up from the ground.
- Dehydrator with fan on and heat off. Drying will happen much more quickly, watch them closely.
Checking the Beans’ Moisture Level
The drying process will need to continue as long as it takes for each bean to reach the desired moisture level. Each bean will dry at its own rate, so you will need to check on them frequently. Beans that are done are put into a sealed plastic bag.
To check the moisture level, look closely at the wrinkled surface of the bean. While a bean is drying, there will be wrinkles with smooth bean surface between them. As they dry, the width of the smooth surface between the wrinkles gets smaller. A fully-dried bean will have little or no smooth areas between the wrinkles: it will be all wrinkles.
You can feel the dryness as well. This takes some experience to get right, but you can squeeze the bean between your fingers to get a sense of what the moisture level inside is. What I look for is something like what you’d expect a soft dried fruit (such as an apricot) to feel like. As it dries, it will stop feeling slippery inside the bean and instead it will be a little firm yet still supple.
The color is another way to gauge the dryness: it will get darker, usually going from dark brown to almost black. This is not a reliable test, however, as it is normal for the bean color to vary depending on a lot of factors. Your beans may start out light brown and get darker, but only to a dark brown.
If the beans stay light brown, that is a quality issue. They will feel slightly hollow inside and dry on the surface. A bean like this is still usable, but it won’t have the flavor intensity of a good quality bean. The usual reason for this condition is an under-ripened bean.
Conditioning the Beans
Once the beans are dried, the final stage is to age or “condition” them for a while. As explained above, we place the dried beans in a sealed plastic bag once the finish drying. Label the bag with the date of the last bean to go in there.
The beans should condition for at least 3 months after drying. This is where the flavor and aroma settles in and stabilizes. Since the beans are together in a sealed container, the moisture and aroma equalizes, and you end up with a more consistent cure.
After the 3‑month conditioning, the beans are done and can be handled like any vanilla bean. They should be kept in a sealed container and will keep indefinitely that way. This is also when you will select out your beans for making extract.
Extract beans tend to be dryer, so select out all the beans that are firm, and not as supple. Also any small beans or beans that are split more than 1/2 inch. These beans are used to make your extract.
So that’s it, if you’re growing vanilla, you can use this tutorial to cure them for maximum flavor development and best bean condition while preventing mold.
[…] the next part, we get into how to complete the sweating process and how to dry and age the […]
Thank you for the great tutorial! I was searching for how to cure vanilla beans and came across this one. Pics of ripe beans helped me tremendously since this is the first crop of vanilla beans. A freezer, cooler with jugs of hot water, a dehydrator and best of all clear instructions seems very doable and makes better sense than other sources I read
We only had seven beans to harvest, the pollinating learning curve was quite steep and we wasted so many orchids until we figured it out. I’ll let you know how it turns out. I’m in Florida, zone 10a.
I’m glad to hear from you, Rhonda, please let us know how it all turns out. 7 beans is plenty to start with!
GREAT tutorial! Easy to understand instructions and I appreciated the photo of what the ripe beans should look like. I live in Pepe’ekeo on the Big Island. I’m just harvesting my first successful crop. I have probably 200 beans. The online tutorials I looked at for pollinating were less than stellar. (It took me YEARS to figure that out) I have 30 plants that are 4 years old. I am thoroughly enjoying this new found hobby.
A hui Hou.
Aloha,
Lynn Lincoln
Hi Lynn, that’s pretty impressive, you’ve got a lot of vanilla growing! I appreciate your comments, hard to tell how well I’ve conveyed the information.
I know what you mean about the pollination, even with all the videos out there, it took us a while to get it. Best of luck with your crop!
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2iizcmM][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49425614937_0f9e3ca605_c.jpg[/img][/url]
I’m keeping my cooler with the jugs of water between 104–120 degrees and re-heat the water while I have the beans in the dehydrator. I bought a wireless refrigerator thermometer/monitor so I don’t loose heat when checking the temp.
The beans have turned brown and the longitudinal wrinkles are starting to appear. 18 days will be next Friday. I’m leaning towards drying them in the dehydrator. How much quicker will they dry?
I can’t say with much accuracy how fast they will dry in your dehydrator, but you will want to check them every day. Keep it on the lowest possible heat. Smaller beans might take a couple days, large beans could be a week. You’ll just have to monitor them closely and get them out when they are done to avoid over-drying them.
Aloha Roland, mahalo for sharing this information. Can you give more details about your electrically heated sweat box please.
Anna
I could write a whole article on this, explaining how to build it and where to get the parts. Briefly, it is a well-insulated cooler with a couple of solid-state heating elements and an electronic temperature control.
You can do something simpler with a heating pad (commonly available at a drugstore) that has a temperature control and a thermometer. I suggest you test the temperature to get the right setting before putting the beans right on the pad. You’re looking for 115℉
If you’re interested in how to build a sweat box like I use, I’ll write that up, it would be good content.
Would definitely love to hear more about building a sweat box like you use!
Will try thermostat and heating pad in the mean time.
Mahalo for your excellent posts.
Anna
You’re welcome!
Thank you for your very informative post regarding vanilla pods fermentation. Would like to know the preferred variety of vanilla to plant.
I’m no expert on this, generally speaking there are only two types of vanilla that are commercially grown: bourbon (vanilla planifolia) and tahitian (vanilla tahitensis). They both grow in similar conditions, so I would say that the chouce is based on what you plan to do with your vanilla.
If it’s for your own use, I’d suggest you try the two types and decide based on your preference.
If you are planning to sell your vanilla, the decision would depend on your sales outlets: if you’re working with a buyer, they will have a preference. If you’re selling locally or online, the most common type for your region or country would be a good choice because it would be a product that is familiar to your market. Globally, bourbon is by far the most common, but the market for tahitian vanilla is also strong and growing.
Most vanilla growers are obtaining their vanilla cuttings locally, so it will be whatever type is locally available.
There are over 100 different species of the vanilla orchid across the world. However, only a few different varieties are commonly grown, with the most prevalent being the previously mentioned Vanilla Planifolia. Below are your likely options when determining which variety to buy and grow.
Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia)
As you guessed, this variety is grown in Madagascar, a country located on a large island South-East of Africa. Despite the name, Madagascar Bourbon vanilla plants have no relation to bourbon, the alcohol. This plant variety is the most commonly sold variety at nurseries in almost all parts of the world. It produces beans you are probably most familiar with when it comes to the flavor, which is the classic, mildly sweet taste. This variety is often chosen because of its higher disease resistance and large yields of high-quality 7–9 inch beans. Labels on vanilla extract bottles at the store commonly advertise that their product is made with Madagascar Vanilla. This is commonly used as a marketing strategy, since there is no difference between Madagascar Vanilla Planifolia and Mexican Vanilla Planifolia, other than the environments they are grown in and the way they are pollinated. Because of this, people commonly mistake “Madagascar Vanilla” products as being superior to products that do not advertise that.
Mexican Vanilla (Flat Leaved Vanilla, Vanilla Planifolia)
This is the native Vanilla Planifolia, but has the same growth properties as Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla. It is the same plant as Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla, but it is naturally pollinated by a stingless, endangered species of honeybee called the Melipona Bee (Melipona Beecheii). As for the flavor of their beans, it has the same classic taste as the Madagascar variety, but some say it has a slight kick of spice. This is most likely due to the differing environment that they are grown in, compared to the environment in Madagascar, and the lines of genes are slightly different. Unless you live in Central America, you will have to hand-pollinate the flowers.
Tahitian Vanilla (Vanilla Tahitensis)
This rare variety is native to Tahiti, and is only slightly different from Vanilla Planifolia. The variety is a hybrid between two other varieties, Vanilla Planifolia and Vanilla Odorata, an extremely rare variety native to the forests of Belize, a country in Central America. It produces small yields of short, broad beans. Tahitian Vanilla is especially known for its unique fruity flavor. The ripe fruit actually contains less vanillin, the main flavor compound in vanilla, than Vanilla Planifolia. The major downside of this variety other than the small yield is that the cured vanilla beans are susceptible to heat, meaning they don’t do well in the oven or any other source of intense heat.
Indian Vanilla (Vanilla Pompona)
Indian Vanilla is native to Mexico, and is known for its high content of vanillin. It is a fairly rare variety due to the fact that it is an endangered species. It produces small yields of large beans, which have a very bold flavor and has an aroma similar to a cherry. Since it has such a sharp flavor, it is mainly cultivated for use in fragrances and perfumes.
Could you use a food dehydrator for a sweat box?
I doubt it…the environment should be warm and moist. Your beans are in plastic bags, but the moving air will still remove moisture from the beans (plastic bags are slightly porous) and dry them too quickly.
With your much appreciated help, Roland, I am nearly through the sweating process and about to dry my first batch of beans. I wasn’t loving the cooler & hot water jug setup, and since the beans are in a sealed plastic bag when they’re not in the dehydrator, I’ve been using my Anova sous vide set up to keep them at a steady 115 degrees. I double bagged them & don’t worry about getting all the air out, just enough to keep them submerged. It seems to be working. Still, I look forward to seeing your sweat box post when it comes out.
I live on Oahu’s east side, and have 13 beans, ranging in size from skinny 4″ to plump 8″. This whole endeavor is a wonderful learning experience and I hope to have 2 vines flowering this year. That would keep me busy!
Mahalo,
Carol
Hi Roland,
Great “How To” information with simple explanations and your responses to Replies answered one of my questions. Thanks for that!
I’m about three weeks out since the end of bloom pollination. Many of the first flowers I pollinated, the beans are already 6″- 8″ long and 1/2″ wide. Is this normal? I pollinated my first bloom just 2 months ago and I’m reading it’s a 9 month long growing process. My problem is a few of the largest beans and a few smaller are browning at the tip and then some are turning a bit yellow. Just this week I collected 8–10 beans that where on the ground (squirrel or heavy rain) and I’m using your process to do something with the beans other than toss them in the garbage. With only 100 beans set I’m afraid I’ll have nothing left after 9 months. I’m a treatment free beekeeper and I was hoping to use the beans to infuse my bees honey this year. I don’t treat with pesticide or fungicide so that leaves me little hope for any harvest if this is a disease problem. I’m about 100 mi north of 27deg. latitude (the sweet spot) in zone 9b in Clearwater, Fl. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Hi Tim,
It is normal for the beans to put on size pretty quickly after pollination. Within a couple of weeks, you’re seeing most of the full size the bean is going to achieve. After that, it changes little for the 9–10 months until it ripens.
If the beans you pollinated this year are turning yellow already, that is not right, those beans are failing and won’t be curable. However, be careful, because it’s normal for the flowering and new beans to be coming in before all of the previous year’s beans have ripened…so there can be some overlap. It may be your yellowing beans are actually last year’s ripening beans…ready to harvest and cure.
If the yellowing beans are indeed this year’s beans, it’s not good, but I’ve never seen anything like that, so I don’t know what the issue is. We grow a lot of plants, so we see a fair amount of things not going right, but I’ve never seen that. If you’ve got an agricultural extension agent you can talk to, that might be a good idea.
If you want to send a photo of the beans you’re concerned about, I will take a look and maybe have some idea what’s going on…[email protected]
I live south of the OP in FL and had the same thing happen last year. I would find slightly yellowed beans that had fallen to the ground, around 30% of the beans we pollinated. The beans falling off happened early in the season, not later on.I haven’t seen any yet this year, but it may be too soon. We finished pollinating The last orchids two weeks ago.
Interesting…is it possible this was due to cold weather?
Aloha Roland,
The vines on my vanilla orchids are turning brown in small sections throughout my greenhouse. All of a sudden there is a 3 inch section that has turned brown and with time it atrophy’s into a dead area area and eventually the rest of the vine dies. This happened once last year but only to one orchid. It was at the end of a row and was being exposed to direct sun at that time and I wrote it off to sunburn. Now it is happening throughout the greenhouse. A couple of weeks ago I had to replace the greenhouse (shade screen) my vanilla orchids are under. They were exposed to direct sun for almost two days. The top leaves got burned, died and shriveled up. Is this what is happening to the vine or could it be something else?
Hi Linda,
From you description, I agree it’s probably not sunburn, which tends to happen in patches on the leaves or just with general yellowing of the exposed parts.
What you’re describing could be necrosis caused by a virus. I’m not really qualified to diagnose, but I’ve seen this before and it’s important you take steps to prevent spreading it around. If you can remove the affected plant or plants, that will help a lot. They should be destroyed or at least disposed of somewhere far from other vanilla plants. Also, cutting tools can transmit it to other vanilla plants, so sterilize your clippers (you can use a bleach solution) after using them to cut affected plants.
Once you’ve removed the affected plants, you’ll need to keep an eye out for more of it appearing.
You can find out more from online resources such as this: pestnet.org
Hola Roland, I am at the very beginning stages so I appreciate your insight and everyone’s comments. You mentioned cold weather. In S. Florida we get cold snaps. My vines will be outside under a shade house. Is there something more I should do to keep the vines from “freezing?”
You also mentioned drying the beans outside on your roof to protect it from the sun and rain. Could you can take a picture of your drying rack on the roof? Any chance you can make videos and post them to youtube?
Thank you,
Adela
A fairly easy way to protect the plants from cold is to put up wind barriers so that cold air can’t blow through. It won’t protect them from a serious cold snap, though.
Yes, I need to include a picture of the drying racks, good idea. I am planning to do a video about curing the beans soon.
Roland,
I have noticed some of my vanilla beans starting to turn yellow after only 3–4 months. They haven’t fallen off the raceme and are still attached. Is this a familiar problem, and what can I do about it. Vines are 5 years old, and have been looped back into the ground several times. Beans were pollinated in April.
Hi Charlie,
I have heard of this happening for growers in Florida, I’ve had several growers ask me about this, but I don’t know the reason. I don’t see anything about this in my agricultural manuals, the next logical step would be to contact the Ag extension of the University of Florida to find someone knowledgeable to ask about this specific issue. I haven’t seen anything about it in the published literature on the site.
Hello,
First of all, thank you for the amazing website.
I have a silly question. When you discuss sweating the beans in a 1 gallon bag is the bag sealed or open?
I have my first beans coming in this year on Ohau and don’t want to goof them up.
Thanks
Dominick
Hi Dominick,
I seal the bags, gently pressing out some of the air first. You want the sweat to coat all the beans, so keeping in all the moisture will help with that. After the first two days, they should be pretty sticky in there…that is good, you want that. The stickiness will fade as the curing continues, but the beans will stay a bit oily to the touch. That is a sign things are going well.
–Roland
Hi Roland,
I,m from Malaysia.
Thanks for your wonderful Website.
Normally ‚what is the drying ratio of green Vanilla bean to a cured dry vanilla bean ?
TQVM.
In general, you’re going to get 30% of your green harvest weight in cured beans. So if you harvest 1000Kg, you’ll have about 300Kg of cured beans. This does not take grading into account, once the beans are graded, it will be less…but that really depends on a lot of factors, so it’s hard to say what that will be.
For calculating the moisture content of a vanilla bean, we assume the moisture content of the green bean at 81% which means that a 10g green bean has 8.1g of water, so if it is cured to a 30% moisture content, it will weigh 1.9g (dry weight) + 2.43g (30% of the water) or 4.33g.
Aloha Roland
Trish from Big Island.
I’m waiting for my beans to ripen on the vine.
How yellow should they be for me to pick before freezing?
I have sweat box set up.
Please clarify:
After freezing for at least 24 hours I place beans in the zipped plastic zip lock bags on top of towels .
How many in 1 gal bag?
Can I stack bags?
Mahalo,
Trish
I’m in the same boat in Waialua (oahu). Some beans are kinda yellow, but most are not. I may have to wait for 1 to split before I pick them all.
Yes, definitely let them fully ripen, but you don’t pick them all at once. You pick each one as it ripens.
I’ve got a picture here that shows ripe beans. I wait until the tip is yellow (sometimes is it really just light green) and I can see the little “mouth” where the bean is going to split open. If it starts to split, it’s ready, pick it right away.
The reason I recommend freezing for small harvests is so you can keep putting your harvested beans into the freezer until all the beans are harvested. You can use a gallon ziplock bag for that, and when the bag is full, you can start sweating those beans. So there’s no set time, just keep putting them in the freezer until your ziplock is full or the plants are done and you’ve harvested all your beans. The beans can stay in the freezer as long as you need until you’re ready to sweat them.
The important thing about this is that the sweat will go a lot better if you’re curing at least 1 pound of beans. Sweating a small quantity of beans doesn’t work too well, so the idea is to keep freezing the beans as they are harvested until there is enough to sweat.
We don’t freeze our beans because each day’s harvest is usually more than enough to cure. What we do instead is “scald” the beans in hot water to prep them for sweating. It has a similar effect on starting the enzymatic process, but it’s a lot faster and more practical for a large quantity.
So, on the sweat, yes you can stack the bags. When we are in full swing, we have two coolers full of sweating beans. We put a date on the bag so we know how long each bag of beans has been sweating. We stack them so that the newest beans are on the bottom.
When we cycle the beans through the dehydrator, we are careful to keep each bag of beans separate (the dehydrator shelf is labeled with the date also) so we always know how long each batch has been sweating.
–Roland
Thanks so much for the wonderful information. This is my first year so I only have 9 beans. Can I use my oven if I don’t have a dehydrator?
Probably best not to, really the most important thing in drying the beans it air circulation. So, it would be better to sun dry them in a way that lets plenty of air circulate around the beans.
The sweat is also important, so putting them in a plastic bag in the sun will work for that part, but it needs to stay warm. You’re not going to leave them in the bag all the time, just most of the day, take them out of the bag for a few hours in the hottest part of the day.
Honestly it is very hard to get good results with such a small batch, just do your best. A food dehydrator is pretty much a requirement for good results, I’ve found.
Thanks for this excellent how-to on curing vanilla. I grow my vanilla in a greenhouse in Oregon, and (after having the plant more than 25 years, grown mostly in a sunny window of my house) it started blooming about 4 years ago, after I built the greenhouse and moved it in there, where it grows in quite bright light, right up under the glass along the rafters. In April of 2020, after watching a Youtube video, I was successful at actually pollinating 4 of 5 blooms, which I harvested on January 25, 2021. The “beans” seem quite large compared to what I’ve seen on the internet, the largest 59 grams and the smallest 37 grams. (194 grams total) I harvested them all at once (they were all nearly identical in terms of changing to a distinctly more yellowish color, over the course of only about a week.) I then blanched them in 160F water for 3 minutes. They are in a ziplock bag in the 4th day of the sweat, which is in a Yeti “cooler” with 7 gallons of hot water in jugs, which has been maintaining the temperature between about 105 and 120F, changing at least some of the water once or twice a day to keep the temperature in that range. I’m trying to keep from peeking, which drops the temperature a degree or two each time I look. They have turned to an oily, deep brown and are definitely developing the vanilla scent. So far, so good, and transforming just as you said.
Wow, that’s great, Steve. Thanks for sharing your story. I’d long wondered if growing vanilla in a greenhouse could be successful, and it sounds like you’re doing it!
I would advise you to start slowly drying your beans, they may start to rot if you don’t. I take mine out of the sweat box (and out of their plastic bag) and put them in an electric food dehydrator for an hour each day so they dry out very slowly while sweating. The moisture begins to dry onto the surface of the bean, creating a protective layer.
Thanks for the reply. I have been putting the pods in a food dehydrator at 115F for about an hour each day, starting after 48 hours in the sweat box. At first I was disappointed that they didn’t seem to be drying, then looked back here to realize this isn’t the stage I’m actually trying to dry them. While they look a little less oily at the end of the hour, they aren’t developing the drying creases yet, and are only a gram or two less weight than when I started. I looked at lots of Youtube videos and articles (and an 1898 Britannica Encyclopedia article), and your description is the clearest at explaining just what it is I’m trying to do. Is the 18 day period in the sweat box fixed in stone? Since my seed pods seem so large compared to others I’ve seen, I wonder if they might need more time in the sweat box to complete this part of the curing? My plant was a cutting from an experimental greenhouse at Oregon State University when my niece worked in the greenhouse in 1990. While it was labeled V. planifolia, the leaves are larger and slightly more heart shaped, and the vine thicker than other plants I’ve seen sold as V. planifolia.) Thanks again.
The drying process is quite slow and the creases won’t be seen for a week or so into the process, especially for a large bean. From your description, your beans are indeed quite large, 15–20g is a typical average for a class I green bean.
It is true that large beans could stand to sweat longer. In practice, we don’t do that, it would complicate the curing process too much considering the volumes we deal with. We tend to oversweat the smaller beans as a result. There’s no real drawback to that as far as quality is concerned.
In general, you’re going to get about halfway to the final moisture content in the sweat, then complete the dryng in an open air dryer. In a temperate climate, I’m not sure what that would mean. Outdoors the cold temperatures won’t be helpful, indoors the humidity can be quite low and they will dry more quickly than is desirable. A very large bean would take well over 8 weeks to dry here.
Since you know the starting weight, you can calculate the moisture content of the bean as it dries with the knowledge that the initial moisture content is generally 80%. Your target moisture content for taking it out of the sweat would then be 60% and for finishing the drying process 30%.
As to why your beans are so large, yes, you’ve probably got some good genetics there. Generally, a large plant will produce larger beans if there are fewer on the vine. In cultivation, we are careful not to pollinate too many flowers so that the bean size stays large enough. So, it sounds like you’ve really optimized that principle in your case.
HI, Roland. Back with an update/correction and a question about calculating the moisture content I’m aiming for.
It turns out, I now think my plant was mislabeled, and is actually V. pompona, rather than V. planifolia. Another member of the Oregon Orchid Society consulted with a person he knew more knowledgeable than I (and showing her pictures of my plant and beans) who thought it was actually V. pompona. After some more review of internet pictures, it certainly looks like the thicker stems, leaves and beans are consistent with pompona (beans often looking like small bananas rather than green bean-looking seed pods of V. planifolia. So, would there be a different curing process for the two species? After 15 days of sweating, my beans have only lost about 7 or 8% or their original weight with an hour a day in the food dehydrator at 115F. The characteristic vanilla scent is developing, and some creases indicating drying are appearing, but they aren’t anywhere near approaching 60% moisture content yet. I was thinking I should probably keep the sweat going until I get at least a little closer to the 60% moisture you mentioned aiming for at the end of the sweat.
The second part most likely illustrates my math ignorance, but, assuming 100g or fresh bean, of which ~ 80 g would be moisture, is the 30% moisture I’m aiming for at the end of the drying cycle be relative to the original weight ( that is, 20 g of dried material and 30 g of water) for a final weight of 50 grams, or 30% moisture in the final product (that is, 20 g of “dry weight of the green pod, + 9 grams of moisture in the final dried bean, which would be 30% moisture of the 29 gram final weight? I’ve used 100 grams as an example, so grams would also be equal to percentage. In other words, when I’m done drying would I have 29 g of dried beans or 50 g of dried beans. Or have I gotten this so confused, I don’t have any idea of what I’m talking about.
Anyway, thanks so much for your guidance, This has been really fun, and seems to be working so far. I’d send pictures if I could figure out how to attach them to this reply. I thought I had replied asking these questions a couple of days ago, but apparently didn’t hit the “post” button. Sorry if I did, and this is a duplicate post.
Steve
I don’t have specific knowledge about curing vanilla pompona. I do carry the beans at times, and I have had conversations with the grower about their process, but I don’t know some critical details like how to know when the bean is ripe. The curing process this grower in Peru uses is similar to mine, but it takes longer, as the beans are quite a bit larger, about 3x the weight of planifolia pods. They have a very nice aroma, kindof like vanilla’s rough country cousin.
I wouold suggest you let the sweating process continue past the 18 days, perhaps giving the daily dry cycle a little more time to avoid them rotting. I would not worry too much about how long it takes, as long as they are slowly drying, eveything is going as it should.
Calculating the moisture level is pretty simple once you get how it works. Key to the process is knowing the initial moisture level. For pompona beans, I don’t know what that would be.
How it works is this: at the 80% moisture level (when the bean is first harvested) a bean weighing 25g will have 25 × 0.8 or 20g grams of water and 25 — 20 or 5g dry weight. So, that same bean at 60% moisture level would weigh (20 × 0.6) + 5 grams or 17g. The trick is knowing the dry weight doesn’t change, only the water weight is changing as the bean dries.
I would not suggest applying this to a batch of beans, each bean will dry at its own rate, so the calculation is only accurate for a single bean. Knowing the average moisture level won’t tell you if any one particular bean is done.
We don’t routinely calculate the moisture level like that, not practical with lots of beans, it’s done by feel. We’re looking for soft, but without a “slippery” feeling inside the bean, much like a dried fruit, like a soft dried apricot.
Hi Roland, Thanks so much for this wonderful tutorial! This is my first time harvesting and growing vanilla, and I have 29 beans. All of them were ripe when picked, but some of them I noticed too late and they split and started to brown. Will they take a shorter time to cure? Is it best to separate them?
I just put them in all in the cooler to sweat, but the thermometer seems to be increasing rather slowly, after 20 minutes, it has only reached 89 degrees. I’m starting to think an electric heater would be better, but I was curious if there was a maximum temperature the beans can sweat at? I have a few electric heating devices, but they don’t let me adjust the temperature. Thanks so much!
You can actually go quite high with the temperature, and if you’re not using an electric heater, it’s probably a good idea to use water jugs with water that is hotter than you need…like 120 or 130 degrees F. Some places sweat their beans at 160 degrees, so don’t worry about it getting above the 115 degrees I recommend.
You should not separate the beans in the sweat, put them all together, you want as much bean mass as possible (to a point, of course) in the sweat.
P.S., I see you answered the question about how to calculate the moisture content, that is that I’m aiming for 30% of the dry bean being water, not 30% of the original weight, and assuming the same calculation applies to the 60% target for the end of the sweat phase.
Thanks again.
Steve
Hello Roland,
I’m only a few beans away from completing my harvest this year, so I tried to reread your tutorials to prepare for curing and ran into a problem. Clicking on the Read or Full Article options do nothing. I’ve tried on both Firefox and Safari, without success. Is there a problem at your end?
Mahalo,
Carol
Hi Carol,
Yes, thanks for letting me know there was a problem, I’ve fixed it, you will get the full article when you click on the article on the home page.
Thank you!